Whether we’re coming off an epic safari in the bush or heading into one, Victoria Falls is our soft landing. The Zambezi flows slow and wide here, birds call from the reeds, and the Falls themselves are there when you want that rush of power and spray. We’ve returned often and stayed in some wonderful spots. These are a few of our favourite lodges on the Zambian side, all with their own pace, charm, and ways of showing you the river.
Staying at Chundukwa feels like being welcomed into someone’s beautifully run bush home. It’s peaceful, creative, and full of personality. Set along a quiet stretch of river on a working farm. One of the things we love most are the on-site stables. The horse rides through the bush and along the river are a real highlight, and suitable for all levels. There’s something timeless about riding out as the sun sets over the Zambezi. Our chalet was built entirely from reclaimed timber and overlooked the river—open-fronted, breezy, and designed to let nature in. The food was fresh and wholesome, much of it coming straight from their gardens, and their team are always warm and easygoing. It’s a place that feels very connected to the land and the community around it.
This lodge has such a gentle, welcoming atmosphere. We stayed in one of the thatched cottages overlooking a lagoon, surrounded by lush gardens and birdsong. It’s ideal if you’re looking to properly slow down after the pace of safari. One experience that stood out was visiting Tukongote School, which Waterberry has helped develop over the years. It was incredibly interesting to see how meaningfully involved the lodge is in the local community. We also enjoyed a peaceful river cruise one evening, just us and our guide, a few hippos, and the glowing Zambian sunset. Waterberry doesn’t shout for attention, but its quiet beauty really stayed with us.
Tongabezi is quietly legendary — and deservedly so. It sits just far enough from the Falls to feel exclusive, but close enough to pop down for a guided visit. Our River Cottage was a dream: big, open, and full of character, with a view that stretched endlessly across the water. There’s a generosity of spirit here that runs through everything. Breakfasts on your deck, dinners on a floating platform lit by lanterns, a guide who somehow knows exactly when you want to pause and just listen. We visited the Tujatane School, started by the lodge, and left moved by the creativity and ambition there. The sunset river boat cruise to a secluded island for sunset drinks was also a memorable end to the day.
Sindabezi is Tongabezi’s barefoot little sister — a tiny island lodge you reach by boat, tucked into a channel of the Zambezi. With just five chalets and no grid electricity, it’s as off-grid as you want to be, but still somehow manages warm showers, cold drinks, and fabulous food. It’s the kind of place where you stretch out on a hammock and forget what day it is. We kayaked at first light, spotted elephants from our deck, and ate dinners by lantern-light with nothing but fireflies and frogs for company. Wild, simple, and utterly unbothered by the outside world, Sindabezi is a small slice of river magic!
Kenya
